Run Reunion – An Early Morning Jog From Cilaos to Ilet a Cordes

It was late afternoon and the sun was beginning to drop below Reunions high mountain peaks. This action would then give cue for the dense clouds to form, and descend upon the village of Cilaos in an eerie mist, that would engulf the village each and every afternoon like clockwork.

It was as if they were connected to the cog of an expensive Swiss time piece, and mechanically lowered via an invisible wire, at precisely the same time each day. The flip side to this equation, was that every morning we were greeted with clear blue skies and not a cloud in site.

I had been pondering the task for a few days, but decided that tomorrow would be the day I would run the twenty two kilometer round trip to the tiny secluded village of Ilet a Cordes. Ilet a Cordes is visible across the valley from Cilaos , sitting like an island oasis, perched on a small outcrop of land and surrounded by jagged mountain peaks that resemble the teeth of a lumber saw.

That night I feasted on a Creole meal of curried fish, rice and beans, topped with a hot chilling relish, the staple meal of most of Reunion.

I Knew Tomorrows Run Was Going To Be Tough

For a runner it was exactly what was required, hardy and plentiful. With a double helping of rice, I made sure my muscles would have the required fuel to make the journey. I made sure I cleaned my plate, as I knew tomorrows run was going to be tough. Not due to the distance, as I have run many twenty plus kilometer runs, and I generally run the distance most Sunday mornings in preparation for my marathon in 2011. It was due to the fact that tomorrows run was going to be over steep mountain roads, and due to a recent injury I had not trained for a month or so.

To be honest I was feeling a little underdone for the task at hand, but with the beautiful scenery it was worth a try.

A view of the clouds as they would begin to descend over the mountain peaks above Cilaos.

Setting off through the quiet streets of Cilaos just after first light, was a change from the usually hectic and busy mountain village as observed in the middle of the day. Cilaos is an alluring spot, with its colorful creole houses, set on a high plateau in the middle of one of Reunions famed three ‘Cirques’. Recently included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, these Cirques are the remnants of an old extinct volcano, that blew its top millions of years ago, to form what is now a lush green oasis, with cool mountain air, perched in the middle of a tropical island.

Once through town, I passed the old church and began to make my way down a series of multiple switchbacks, that dropped a couple of hundred meters in altitude over a very short distance. I was now running between kilometers two and three, and the switchbacks were easy going on the way down, but I knew they were going to be tough heading back. On the return leg I would have a hard eighteen kilometers under my belt, before having to slog my way up the dreaded switchbacks. Once at the bottom, I began to push on towards Ilet a Cordes, where the road would now begin to undulate as it hugged the side of the mountain. It was during this part of the run that I really began to enjoy my surroundings.

Although the air was still cool and the roadway was shaded, the mountain peaks were awash with the morning light, and it was quite a site indeed.

Reunion Is Less Than 100km Across At It’s Widest Point

Reunion is less than one hundred kilometers across at it’s widest point, but there I was, surrounded by a natural amphitheater of high mountain peaks. These peaks share a close resemblance to the Alps or the Rockies, and it’s hard to fathom that you’re actually on a tropical island. At times I would be transfixed on my surroundings and would have to snap myself back to the task at hand, when the odd oncoming car would make its way into my field of view. The cars were full of mothers driving their young children from Ilet a Cordes, to Cilaos for school.

A veiw of one of the many canyoning spots in the mountains of Reunion. Cilaos offers some of the best canyoning on the island.

Passing through kilometers six and seven, I cruised by an area that is famous for it’s canyoning. From above you can make out the people abseiling down a steep section of cascading water in their brightly colored wetsuits, before plunging into a pool of water that is clinging to the side of the mountain. Canyoning is one of the many physical activities that you can partake in the area, as well as parasailing and of course hiking.

Closing in on Ilet a Cordes, I had to maneuver another series of steep switchbacks that led down to the village. Passing a couple of cars on the way that were actually struggling in first gear, to pull them selves up some of the tight and more steeper bends. Once again I knew I’d have to drag myself up these dreaded switchbacks very shortly, as I about faced and made my way back to Cilaos.

Arriving on the outskirts of the village, there were many local farmers attending to their small crops and vineyards, with some of these perched directly on the edge of the cliffs. It was from this point, I had a view directly back down the valley to the ocean some thirty odd kilometers away, and over a kilometer of elevation below me. I took in the surroundings for a few minutes and had a quick stretch, before I put my head down and started, what was going to be a tough slog back to Cilaos.

A small vineyard perched on a cliff, in the village of Ilet a Cordes.

I made my way, ever so slowly up through the first series of switchbacks, and every few minutes I would eat another of the sugar coated lollies I bought from the general store, the night before. It was now after 8.00am, and the sun was well above the mountains, and shining brightly onto the road ahead. Although still quite early, the sun had quite a kick to it, and the cool air would soon disperse into what would become a moderately warm day.

There was one thing I forgot for this journey, and that was water. Pretty stupid really, trying to run a distance like this and not have any water.

Not Taking Water on A Run Like This Was Pretty Stupid

The most frustrating thing was that I could see and hear the various waterfalls that dotted the landscape along the way, but couldn’t get to the streams to have a drink. It wasn’t until I reached the eighteen kilometer point, that I came across a fresh water spring, where I stopped and had a drink in preparation for the remainder and toughest part of the run, the dreaded switchbacks. My fitness level at this stage was beginning to show, basically crawling up the steep climb to the top, but I refused to let myself stop.

Arriving back in Cilaos my run was almost complete. The town was beginning to wake, with the shops and stalls opening their doors and displaying various goods, for the days trade ahead.

A view down the main street of the colorful village of Cilaos.

I was now quite tired so I gritted my teeth and pushed it for the last few hundred meters back to our guest house. I opened the door and double air punched, shouting to Liza ‘I made it!’. Liza just smiled, as she was trying to talk me out of the run to Ilet a Cordes, the night before. She believed I should run another route, as I might get hit by a car on the narrow and winding roads.

The roads on the island of Reunion are an attraction in their own right. Where the roadway leading from the coast up to Cilaos has to be seen to be believed. Over four hundred tight bends and switchbacks, with tunnels and one way sections running around tight corners that are seriously dangerous. The whole area dotted with dense vegetation, barely clinging to the near vertical rock faces above. The roadway is also a dumping ground for the odd boulder that has fallen from the cliffs above.

For those wanting a destination a little out of the ordinary, I recommend the French Overseas Territory of Reunion, as a great place to spend a week or two. If you’re looking for a beach holiday then Reunion is not for you, but with it’s vast array of activities, and diverse and truly spectacular landscapes, it’s a one of a kind.

Below are the graph and map from my Garmin 405 Sports Watch for this particular run.

Your Thought’s and Comments?

Are you the type of person who likes to keep fit whilst travelling? Who out there has completed a marathon or something similar whilst traveling the world?