Instagram is a service that at first I sort of frowned upon. But due to the above reason as well as serious internet bandwidth constraints thrown at us in Africa. I have begun to document the more day to day aspects of our travels via the service. The photos you see below were all taken on my iPhone 4. Not the best camera in comparison to some of the later iPhone models or the latest Android phones. But with a bit of editing and the odd filter or two I believe the images can relay a certain reflection of our journey to those who read this blog.

Over the course of the coming months (or years?). We will be posting the best of these images in a post such as this. The latest image and a brief description of where it was taken will also be posted on the main Blog Wall as well. I have also coded up a nice map that pulls in the last 20 images from Instagram Service and plots them on a google map. You may have already noticed it in the menu. Just click on the Journey tab to see these last 20 images.

The orange pins on the map are numbered one through to twenty and are in chronological order of when the image was taken. If some of the pins are not shown, just zoom in a little further on the map and they will start to appear.

I hope you enjoy the images below as there will be plenty more to come.

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Zawiyani ya Salmata Hamissi Mosque Was Captured Here

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During all these swims, I’ve encountered all manner of creatures big and small that live beneath the waves. From the multitude of colorful fish of all shapes and sizes. To sharks and stingrays and even the odd sea snake or moray eel. Up until now though, I’d only gotten a brief long distance glimpse of a sea turtle, whilst swimming in Hawaii over two decades ago.

All this changed though, after our recent visit to Mayotte and in particular, the southern beach paradise of ‘Plage de N’gouja’. The beaches of southern Mayotte are like nothing that I’ve seen before. Not because of the sand or what’s in the water, but because of the of vegetation. The beaches here are flanked by mighty Baobab trees.

The Mighty Baobab Trees of Plage de N’gouja Were An Impressive Sight

At least several centuries old and towering over 30 meters high. Some of these beauties had the girth of a small truck.  And I am told that baobabs can hold an astonishing 20,000 liters of water within their huge trunks. Plage de N’gouja in particular was a special place indeed. Not only because of such old and rare trees found only meters from the water. But because this small bay is a marine conservation area and a breeding ground for the endangered Green Sea Turtle.

There were several dozen of these somewhat prehistoric creatures calling this bay home. If you sat on the beach and just watched the water. It wouldn’t be long before one would surface, before taking a large breath of air. Then diving towards the sea floor to feed on the sea grass, that grows in be warmer shallow waters close to the shore.

Swimming With The Green Sea Turtles Is A Great Experience

Swimming with these creatures was a great experience, with some that were quite large and at least 80 years old. All you had to do was keep your distance and just swim along with them. They were in no way afraid of close contact with humans. And I suppose that has allot to do with their very basic but also very affective defense mechanisms. That have survived the test of time over the eons, where many other species have either had their DNA change course or they just simply became extinct.

I have put together a small video of my swim with the Green Sea Turtles and I hope you can get a feeling like you we along with me (sorry about the voiceover, but I had a head cold at the time).

The coral at Plage de N’gouja was also quite good for snorkeling. With the reef only an easy 200m paddle from the beach, in very calm waters. If you do find yourself in Mayotte then I highly recommend at least a couple of days in the Southern region of the island.

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Where do you even begin to describe a destination like the mysterious tiny island nation of the Comoros (or the Union of the Comoros using its correct long form name). Firstly I should start by explaining exactly where this most minuscule of nations is found on the globe. If you draw a line between the top of Madagascar and mainland Africa. You will find the Comoros islands.

In all my travels and wanderings over the past 20 years, I have visited over half the nations on earth. So I can speak from experience when I say that the Comoros is a world away from the well worn tourist trails of South East Asia and now even those found in South America. Even with its close proximity to its more frequented neighbor of Mayotte. The Comoros certainly give you a feel, like your a modern day explorer.

There are four main Islands that make up the Comoran Island group. Three of which combine to form the sovereign country of the Union of The Comoros. With the forth being the French overseas territory of Mayotte. On this particular journey, we only made it as far as Grande Comore within the Union of The Comoros. The largest in size as well as in political clout of the three islands that make up the Union. The other two islands are named Moheli and Anjouan and lie a little to the south of Grande Comore.

The Comoros Has A Rich Political History (Both Modern and Ancient)

An extremely poor country steep in Islamic culture. The Comoros has a rich history of Arab traders, Persian Sultans and Portuguese pirates. It also has a checkered and more recent past of insane politics. That has seen the Union encounter no fewer than 20 political coups in the past 25 years. Although they seem to have settled their differences of late, and things have now begun to calm down somewhat.

Traveling to this far flung exotic destination isn’t for everyone. It can be hard going at times and despite it’s poor economy. It can still be an expensive destination for a western traveller. There is basically no tourist infrastructure here, and virtually no tourists. I’ll repeat that again. There are virtually no tourists in Comoros. We only spoke to one other couple traveling the region. With the only other foreign people we met being business people, aid workers and a couple of French military guys on a group training mission with the Comoran Army (who at first though we were spies for the Australian government, seriously).

It’s safe to say that, if you want to get away from it all then Comoros is your type of destination. And if you get here soon and out of season like we did. It’s quite possible you could be the only travelers in the whole country. A bizarre concept in the modern world we live today thats for sure.

The Comoros is about as far away from the complexities of modern western life as you can get. But if your on the run from Interpol then I suggest you pick another tropical hideaway. As the Comoros was a complete polar opposite to the lax security found in neighboring Mayotte. Upon entry to the nations capital airport. We were finger printed, had high resolution photos taken of us, as well as our digital signatures recorded. All this technology was quite bizarre for a very poor country, and I’m sure if you dug a little deeper there’d be a story or two behind who supplied it.

The Comoros Was a Very Safe Country To Travel (Except For The Roads)

Despite the poverty, the people were warm and friendly and the Comoros is a very safe country to travel. If you do visit, you will need to respect the strong Islamic culture here. That means long pants for both men and women, with women wearing long sleeves as well. This is not enforced and the Islamic culture here is a very tolerant one. But it will gain the respect of locals and may open a few doors for you along the way.

One thing you’ll notice during your time here is the sad state of many of the cars and trucks on the road. Most vehicles here are literally death traps, poorly maintained by bush mechanics, with all types of Mr fix-it solutions holding them together. The roads are also in grave disrepair, hence the state of the vehicles. Drivers duck and weave all over the road dodging pot holes, and looking for that small section of the road that will not destroy their vehicle any further.

So forget marked lanes and lines on the roads there and accidents are all to common place in the. With the number of burnt out and wrecked cars dotted around the island were simply staggering, and completely disproportional to small population of just over 700,000. The number of vehicles here with broken windshields was also uncanny. So my guess is that replacement auto glass just doesn’t find its way to the Comoros.

The Comoros Has a Recent History of Violent Volcanic Eruptions

The geology of the island group is volcanic, with a shore line that has sporadic but extremely beautiful white sandy beaches in between miles of sharp jagged lava fields. Mt Karthala is the dominant high point of Grand Comore, and stands at a height of 2369m. We made the climb of Mt Karthala in a very strenuous 15 hour round trip (not recommended, and two days would have been better).

Mt Karthala is one of the worlds most active volcanoes. Having erupted on average, once every 11 years over the past century. The evidence of these eruptions is easily seen whilst touring the island. With many black lava flows, highly contrasted against the lush tropical vegetation that makes up most of the islands interior. These lava flows are a reminder of Mount Kathala’s violent past. Like rivers of destruction, they cut their way through everything in their path before finally reaching the ocean. Solidifying and expanding the islands shoreline slowly over the millennia.

Self Driven Car Hire Is Not Available In The Comoros

Unlike Mayotte, there’s no hire car economy here, So if you want to explore the island on your own. Your best bet is to hire a locals car that will automatically come with its driver. Like most things in the Comoros. The cost of the car and driver were not cheap when you compare it to other nations. Especially when the cars are in such bad shape. But if you want to explore then this is your only real option on any normal time frame. Local busses do cover the island but are extremely sporadic and it seems hitch hiking in the Comoros is a national sport from my observations.

The poverty of this island nation can be seen whilst making your way around the island. As I mentioned previously the vehicles are in a very bad state indeed and many of the buildings are constructed from pieces of lava held together with a minuscule amount of cement or concrete. Paint is obviously a luxury item in the Comoros with many buildings outside of the capital having their exteriors breaking down and discoloured from the harsh weather due to no render or cement.

Other Things To See and Do On Grande Comore

The old town of Grande Comore and the nations capital Moroni is a nice place to stroll around. There are a few old Mosques along the old sea walls worth checking out, with some dating back to the 14th century. As you’d expect, the Mosques are some of the more well preserved buildings on the Island. With just over a week on Grande Comore.  I felt we got a fair look at what it had to offer due to it’s very small size. If you had more time and really want to loose yourself. Then the other islands of Moheli and Anjouan are only an overnight ferry or a short flighty away.

The Comoros was a real flashback to my early travels of the likes of Northern Pakistan or Iran. That feeling of being in a place where very few other western people come. No real hassles were presented to us. Which is great for my desire to travel to places that few others seek out, but no good for the local population. We were asked by a few local people as to why nobody comes to Comoros. I had no real answers for them, but suspect that one of the main reasons is that the Comoros does not fall on any major air routes.

With no natural resources to rely on. The main exports of the Comoros are Ylang Ylang (a plant extract used to make perfume) and Vanilla. Therefore this place is in dire need of a tourism economy. Comoros has plenty to offer in the way of tourism, if they were just given a chance. So lets hope others like us, will make the journey to this remote part of the world. But I feel until a major air route flies through here. Sadly the tourists they so badly need will be few and far between for many years to come.

Your Thoughts and Comments?

Would you consider a trip to the Comoros if you were already traveling in the Eastern or Southern regions of Africa? Or maybe you’ve already been there.

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We’ve spent countless years traveling to many of the worlds more popular (and often cheaper) destinations. And don’t get me wrong, I do enjoy the ease of travel that many of these places do offer. But at times, mass tourism does form a bit of a thorn in my side.

I’ve always enjoyed exploring parts of the planet that few travellers have the will or desire to seek out. And our latest journey which formed a sort of pre-cursor to our grand African adventure, threw up a couple of gems. Mayotte and especially the Comoros are truly ‘Off The Beaten Path’ destinations that definitely fit that travel genre. A genre that seems to be thrown around a little to easily at times.

Sometimes Exotic Locations Are Expensive To Travel

You begin to realize just how expensive a trip to this part of the world can be from the minute you try and book your flight. Air travel does seem to be getting cheaper these days, but as always there’s a catch. Only the well worn and more popular routes are given this luxury.

To the lesser traveled, and more out of the way destinations such as Mayotte and Comoros. You’ll find yourself paying dearly if you wish to frequent this part of the globe. If you don’t believe me, just try and get any sort of discount fare to the Comoros Islands from Australia, the USA or most of Europe. Your best bet would be flying from France or a few of the more affluent Middle Eastern countries, but even then fares are not cheap.

If I haven’t put you off with the cost of getting there. Then get ready for the next hurdle to overcome, the heat. If you do make it to this part of he world then if possible, try and travel in the cooler dry season around June to September.

We arrived in March, with the humidity so high at this time of year, that it all but strangles you. Sucking your energy with every step as you walk. We were not acclimatized to the stifling heat on arrival and with a bit of jet lag thrown in. It hit us like a ton of bricks.

A Few Facts and A Little History on Mayotte

With a population barely large enough to fill a large sporting stadium. Mayotte is a small island that lies midway between the Northern tip of Madagascar and inline with the Mozambique and Tanzanian borders of mainland Africa (see map below).

It is one of the four volcanic born Comoros Islands. Three of which form the tiny island nation of Comoros (our next destination). With the forth, Mayotte. Still being part of the French overseas territory or ‘collectivitie territoriale’ in the local dialect. Basically in the same vein as New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Reunion, amongst others.

When the nation of Comoros was formed in the mid seventies after gaining independence from France. The leaders of Mayotte requested an intervention from the motherland to assist them to remain part of France. The French government sent a couple of war ships along with a small deployment of troops to help with the breakaway. Which is still a sticking point with many in the Union of Comoros.

To finally put the matter to bed. Referendums were held in 1976 and again in 2001. And on both occasions the Mahorais (as the people from Mayotte are called) strongly voted to remain part of France. With a landslide victory of over 99% on each occasion.

Even to this day, the United Nations still calls upon France to hand Mayotte back to the Union of The Comoros. But with a local population strongly opposed to this, their hands are tied. And Mayotte seems to continue to be part of French overseas territory for some time yet.

If Your On The Run Then Mayotte Would Make A Great Hideaway

Mayotte is truly one of those end of the world type destinations. If you were an international fugitive, wanted by Interpol (for god only knows what). Then this is your perfect hideaway (just check the French extradition laws first).

We had our passports stamped in Mayotte and that’s it. No record of our arrival was kept, nothing! We filled out no paperwork at all, and unless the immigration officer had a photographic memory and could remember every single person aboard our flight. Passport numbers, nationality, the works! Then no one knew we were there. In a word, Bizarre.

You don’t come to Mayotte to suffer from an acute case of culture shock, thats for sure. Even though the population is mostly made up of people of the Muslim faith. The destination is quite western in many ways and does differ quite a bit from it’s neighbor Comoros. For many travellers, especially the more experienced ones. You won’t see anything out of the ordinary here.

What you will find, is like that of most small island communities throughout the world. Whether it be in the South Pacific or the Mozambique Chanel. That is friendly people, who just go about their day. None to bothered about the complex goings on of a world far away. And that makes up allot of the appeal of visiting a place such as Mayotte.

What Is There To See, Do and Experience In Mayotte

With its small size, its easy to get a feel for the place in about a week. With a couple of tranquil days in it’s tiny capital of Mamoudzou. You can enjoy people watching  as you relax around the ferry terminal area. Watching the ferry to Petite Terre come and go throughout the day. There’s also the market area that is adjacent the ferry terminal as well. After a couple of days you are free to then drift your way around the island. Stopping off at the more popular or scenic locations of your choosing along the way.

This is possible by a very infrequent local bus, but if your budget allows I would recommend a hire car which can be arranged in the capital Mamoudzou or at the airport. All of the well known international companies are there as well as a few local ones. Expect to pay about 20 euros per day for a non air conditioned small hatchback or about 40 euros for a more up market vehicle with air conditioning.

At the right time of year, Mayotte is famous for sightings of whales. Along with swimming with sea turtles and dolphins which are also quite popular activities on the island. Mayotte also has quite an extensive array of dive spots, with lots of quality reef locations within easy reach for keen snorkelers as well. Most of these activities are run and owned by French nationals of which there are plenty on the island.

Touring the island you will find many small villages. Some of the slightly larger ones such as Sada are a maze of winding hilly alleyways that will take some local help or knowledge to navigate  your way through (by foot or by car). Accommodation outside of the capital can be a bit of hit and miss. So try and get some advice before booking (trip advisor does have some limited info on Mayotte) and as always check your room before paying. We stumbled on a few disastrous looking places, that were extremely over priced.

The Wrap Up

Would I return to Mayotte? Is there more for me to explore? In a word no, but I am also glad I came. To other travelers that are yet to explore some of the French Overseas territories I would probably put Reunion at the top of my list and then follow it up with New Caledonia before Mayotte. What’s your take. Do you enjoy exploring many of the worlds off beat locations such as Mayotte? If so I’d love to hear your favorites.

This was the First part in a Two part series on Mayotte and the Comoros. Coming next is a post on our journey through Grande Comore in the Union of the Comoros. A destination that few in the world will ever make it to.

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The vehicles were stripped down to their shell, with every conceivable spare part removed and no doubt used to maintain other vehicles. The roads in Comoros are in a very poor state, and some of the worst I have seen for quite some time. With many large pot holes that destroy all but the heaviest duty 4WD’s and large trucks.

A Colourful Shell Of The Modern Day Kind Was Captured Here

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This image was captured on the remote east coast, and I wouldn’t call the west coast a thriving metropolis either. The Comoros are volcanic islands and in the background you can see the beginning of the Mount Karthala. The volcano that dominates Grande Comore, with a nice storm brewing at it’s base.

The Beautiful and Remote East Coast Was Captured Here

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With each proceeding day we’ve been threatened with another, and even though the skies in this image look ominous. They were all sausage and so sizzle so to speak. With only a brief passing shower. We’re on the tail end of it now, but you’ve got to love the wet season.

A Dramatic Sky Was Captured Here

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The red tingle tree or ‘eucalyptus jacksonii’ to be precise, is the largest of all eucalypts. With a 400 year lifespan, and growing to a height of over 70 meters (210 feet). With some measuring a staggering 24 meters (72 feet) in circumference at the base. They are truly massive!

The image above was captured whilst I was waiting for my turn to climb to the top of one of these marvels. The climb was to an old fire lookout perched aloft of the famous Gloucester Tree. It was constructed many years ago and the climb is made via a series of steel 153 steel pegs and wire (not for the feint hearted, thats for sure).

A Walk Among Giants Was Captured Here

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The image below I believe fits the second category perfectly. Salmon Beach is located in the the southwest corner of Western Australia, within the D’entrecasteau National Park. We arrived about an hour before sunset and as I strolled over the dunes I was blown away. Everything fell into place and I feel that at that moment in time I was in one of the most stunning places on earth. The light was perfect, the temperature was mild and there was not a sole to be seen, except for a lone surf fisherman casting a rod in the distance.

This is what makes the costal regions of Western Australia so enticing. Yes there are plenty of beautiful spots in the world but I dare say. None that are as sparsely populated as those found in Western Australia. Simply stunning…..

Salmon Beach Was Captured Here

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